|
| |
Replacing the Rear Window Regulator
Pete's Note...As a W140 owner, you
know that the windows in these cars are very heavy due the dual-pane design.
While they help provide a luxuriously quiet ride, the weight of the windows puts
a strain on the motor and mechanism that drives them up and down.
An article written and kindly provided
by Simon Claringbold
Rear
window regulator failure is common in W140s. When the rear window was being
raised I heard a popping noise, no more raise action. I could hear the motor
attempting to wind but no movement. I was able to force the window up by hand by
pressing on the glass and lifting. On enquiring about the part number from my
local independent parts supplier I was told that the original part had been
superseded three times. Hopefully, with improvements each time.
The regulator itself is side
specific. The regulator consists of a frame, slider, cable and pulley for
pulling up and cable and pulley for pulling down. Cables wind into a
common spool. The electric motor bolts onto the spool surround and drives
the spool. The spool is designed to store the exact length of cable
required from the raise/lower operation. If the cable separates from the
regulator slider, the excess cable is wound into the spool creating a jam.
|
Remove rear
door trim.
Pry out the
plastic block in the arm rest. Remove screw. This is the biggest screw. It
must be fully removed.
Pry out, from
the rear, the electric rear seat adjustment switch panel, unplug wires and
store panel.
Panel opening
reveals 2 screws, remove these.
Unscrew plastic
door latch surround – one screw.
Carefully lever off door trim. If
you start near the latch looking as you go you can carefully lever out
each clip. HOWEVER – NOTE closest clip to the latch is different!
|
|
|
The clips away from the latch pry
off.
The clip near the latch LIFTS
off.
|
|
|
Once all clips
are out, lift the door trim off starting at rear of door. Lift trim up
away from door. Unplug wires for electric window, lighter, courtesy light.
Metal
connecting rod for door latch handle also unclips.
Remove door
trim.
At this point
it is easy, working from inside the door trim to remove the ashtray and
courtesy light. This will allow easier refitting of the door trim.
Remove the door
speaker – 3 smaller screws.
Carefully remove dust sealing from
around door. This pulls away from the edges with a bit of work but is
possible.
|
|
Door trim
removed, dust seal pulled away from edges. The dust seal adhesive was
still sticky and reusable even though the car is over 10 years old.
Remove the
window motor – 3 by Torx size 24 bolts. The winder motor unit can be
pried off the old regulator.
Lower the window by hand until the
slider becomes visible – I’m assuming the raising cable has broken
here. There is a black clip that must be removed to allow the window to be
disengaged from the regulator slider.
|
|
|
There are 5
rivets holding the regulator onto the door. You must drill the rivets out.
Go easy, ideally you should just drill the rivet metal only, not the door
metal – you don’t want to make the rivet holes bigger.
STOP!!
Make sure you just remove the rivets for the regulator – there are other
rivets in the door that you want to leave there!
The regulator rivets hold ONLY the
regulator.
The regulator
also has tabs at the top, bottom and centre, that engage in slots in the
door. Jiggle the regulator around once you have these tabs disengaged,
then you can remove the regulator through the door aperture. The window
can be pushed up by hand to allow more room.
The original regulator had a plastic
slider into which the cables are embedded.
|
|
|
Old regulator in pieces, window
motor above is fastened to the regulator with 2 Torx head bolts.
Note the blue slider, window raise cable had pulled away from the plastic
slider.
|
|
|
Fitting the new regulator
New
vs Old. Broken plastic slider where the cable pulled away.
Top is the new
regulator with metal slider in which the cables are embedded
|
|
|
I used bolts and nuts instead of
large rivets to fix the new regulator. Position the slider at the halfway
point. Get new regulator roughly in place, lower window by hand and engage
window with the regulator slider and replace retention clip.
|
|
Engage regulator tabs in door slots
and fit the 5 nuts and bolts – or 5 new large rivets.
|
|
Refit the motor with the 3 torx
bolts. Fit window motor control wires – one round plug and one square
plug. The operation of the window can now be tested using the drivers
console switch. If working, proceed.
|
|
Refit door dust proofing, make sure
you have ALL the wires coming out through the aperture in the dust seal.
Refit the speaker and reconnect plug.
|
|
Position trim near enough to the
door to refit door latch metal rod connector, pass wires out though their
respective apertures in the door trim.
|
|
At this point it is easiest to plug
in the connector for the window raise/lower button.
|
|
Align door lock button on door trim
and place just the top of the door trim onto the door. Working around the
door, align the various clips noting that the one closet to the latch has
to go on before the trim is moved down to its home position. Push door
trim clips into their engaged position around door.
|
|
Refit door latch trim with small
screw. Refit the 3 large screws, the largest of which goes into the
vertical rear most position. Cover large screw head with plastic block.
|
|
Plug in ash tray, fit in at bottom
and push top home.
|
|
Plug in rear seat and headrest
connectors, engage front of trim and push home rear of trim.
|
|
Plug in courtesy light. Light is
mounted with the plug closest to the front of the vehicle, push home rear.
|
|
I lubed the window track using
graphite powder. The W140 ‘L’ rear window is a large and heavy window,
the motor audibly strains much harder when lifting the window as opposed
to dropping the window.
|
|
I found the job
to be straight forward. The above is based on my personal experience
fixing my own vehicle. The information is supplied with no warranty or
guarantee. I am not a qualified mechanic. If you are not confident
following this procedure take your vehicle to a registered mechanic.
Regards,
Simon
Claringbold
|
Thanks
go to Simon for this fine write up!
I found all the diagrams I needed with
my Alldatadiy.com subscription. If you sign up for the service using the link below, I
receive a small commission which helps me cover the costs of administrating my
site. Thanks!
Alldata.diy
is running a special!
Only $6.95 for a 6 Month Subscription!!
Only $21.95 for THREE YEAR subscription!!
Enter Promo Code "SPRING2011" (less quotation marks)
(valid until 6/1/11)

If you can't see the Alldata image above, click
here.
|