| Remove the seven 10 mm
bolts holding the metal cross brace to the car. |
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| Remove the plastic
rivet fasteners from the left and right sides of the auxiliary fan shroud
(left side shown).
Unclip both left and right air
intake scoops, and pull them forward.
|
 |
| Remove the piece that
locks the fan shroud ring to the fan shroud. My car is missing the factory
piece for this, I use a wire tie.
Rotate the ring clockwise
(looking at it from the front) until the locking tabs can be disengaged
from the fan shroud.
Move the ring towards the engine
so it's out of the way.
|
 |
| Remove
the two clips from the fan shroud as shown.
Note. On my car, the only thing
holding the fan shroud in place are these two clips. It looks like there
was at least one bolt that should be holding it in place as well, but a Hack
in the past broke off the bracket it bolted to. Look closely on your
vehicle to make sure you remove any fastener that is holding the shroud in
place before trying to remove it.
|
|
|
|
| Carefully pull the fan
shroud straight up and out. Be careful not to damage the delicate fins on
the radiator. There is a brown plastic tube that may interfere with the
removal. Simply move it out of the way to allow clearance for the fan
shroud. |
 |
| Remove the fan shroud
ring. |
 |
| The clearance between
the fan and the radiator is small. It's very hard getting your hands in
there. The radiator can be moved forward slightly with the cross brace
removed.
I used a small block of 2" x
4" wood and a screwdriver to keep the radiator pushed forward. This
gives you a little more room to maneuver. If you make a block from
scratch, it should be 4 1/4" inches long.
Place it as shown.
I also used some wire to hold the
coolant overflow tube out of the way.
|
 |
| The original fan
clutch has a protective plastic cover on the front. It has to be removed
to gain access to the bolt holding the clutch in place.
Use a flat blade screwdriver to
disengage the plastic tabs from the clutch, and another small screwdriver
to pry the cover away from the clutch. Repeat for each plastic tab until
you work your way all the way around the cover. |
 |
| Halfway done... |
 |
| Once the cover is
removed, pull off the left distributor cover and the power steering fluid
reservoir cover. This will provide a little more access. |
 |
| This is the time it
would be very nice to have the MB tool designed to hold the pulley while
loosening the clutch mounting bolt. If you don't have one, you can still
get the job done.
The tool is a spanner that fits
over the flats of a steel piece mounted on the pulley.
|
 |
| Place the 8 mm Allen wrench into the hex bolt in the center of the fan clutch.
The bolt is a regular right-hand thread bolt. More than likely
you won't be able to loosen the bolt. The fan clutch will turn with the
wrench, that's OK. Turn the wrench and the clutch until the flats on the
steel piece are vertical.
Select a Philips screwdriver with
a diameter that will fit down between the inside of the flat and the bolt
heads holding the pulley on.
|
 |
| Position the
screwdriver so that there is enough room to hold it with your hand. Do NOT
let it drive up against the plastic components while loosening the hex
bolt. The plastic parts are not strong enough to withstand the torque. |
 |
| Loosen the hex bolt
completely, but leave it in the clutch. There isn't enough room to pull
the bolt out. It will come out with the clutch.
Pull the fan and clutch out
together, and carefully. Don't let the blades hit the radiator.
|
 |
| You can see oil leak
streaks on the back of the old clutch, oil on the bearing and bolt.
Definite signs of needing a new clutch. |
 |
| Remove the four 10 mm
bolts holding the fan blades to the clutch.
The blade assembly on my vehicle
was stuck on the old clutch. I sprayed it with penetrating oil and let it
soak for a few minutes.
|
 |
| The blade
assembly was still stuck on tight, so it needed some gentle persuasion to
come off.
Place a block of wood underneath
the blade assembly, but make sure you rest the assembly on the hub ring,
and NOT on a blade.
|
 |
 |
| Tap on the clutch with
a hammer until the clutch comes free from the blade assembly. Try
different spots if needed, and work your way around the assembly.
The clutch is out.
The MB p/n is 120 200 01 22. |
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| Clean off the blade
assembly, and look it over for cracks, dings, and dents. If the assembly
is cracked anywhere, replace it.
MB part number is 120 205 0506. |
 |
| Place the new clutch
on the blade assembly. Line up the mounting holes, and mark the blades and
clutch with a marker. This will help you line things up when installing.
Note proper orientation...bimetal
strip faces front of car, and note blade orientation. |
 |
| Install the new clutch
on the pulley. Torque to 30 foot pounds (41 Nm).
Use the Philips screwdriver to
hold the pulley while torqueing the hex bolt down. |
 |
| Carefully slip the
blade assembly into place. Again, use caution to avoid the radiator fins.
Line up the mark on the clutch
and blade assembly, assemble four bolts, and torque to 80 inch pounds (7.4
foot pounds, 10 Nm). |
|
| Assemble fan shroud
ring over fan blades, and put fan shroud back in place.
This is a little tricky. There is
a mating tab feature on the left and right sides of the fan shroud, as
well as two tongues that mate with slots on the bottom of the radiator
tray. You must get the tongues into the slots, and line up the tabs all at
the same time. Work each area a little bit until you have them all engaged
correctly.
You will need the very long
screwdriver to push the tongues fully into the slots. |
|
| Left mating tab... |
 |
| Right mating tab... |
 |
| Bottom tongues... |
 |
| Pushing tongues in
with screwdriver...
(screwdriver can barely be seen,
but it's there) |
 |
| This step is also
tricky. We have to now attach the shroud ring to the shroud. There are
four mating tabs spaced approx 90 degrees apart that need to engage the
shroud properly.
I found I had to stuff my arms
down both sides of the shroud as far as they could go. Using my hands to
guide the two tabs near the bottom, I used my forearms to hold the two
upper tabs against the shroud.
Once all tabs are mated, rotate
the ring counterclockwise (looking at front of engine) until the ring
won't turn anymore. Make sure that all tabs are engaged and locked. If
they aren't, the ring can flap around in there. We don't want anything
hitting the fan blades! |
Sorry, no photo
available,
needed another set of hands. |
| From this
point on, simply reverse the remainder of the assembly steps. |
I noticed
an immediate difference with the new clutch.
- Fan noise was substantially
louder, especially when revving the engine.
- Appreciable difference in air
moving around the engine compartment.
- Although temps have been cool
here (around 55 F), the engine temp has not risen over ~85 degrees C).
For comparison, a few days ago it was 38 F, and engine temp crept up
to 105 C in slow traffic!
- Looking forward to see where
the temp stays on hot days, stop and go traffic, and A/C on.
|
| Well
Done! And feel better about keeping your beautiful engine running cooler! |
