Disconnect the air temp sensor from the intake runner. Gently bend the plastic retaining tabs up out of their locking slot, and rotate the sensor 90 degrees to pull it straight up and out.

Loosen the band clamp on the rubber intake runner where it mates with the MAF using a Phillips screwdriver. Gently twist the MAF to break the seal between it and the rubber intake runner.  CAREFULLY pull the MAF out of the rubber intake runner. Do not damage the screens on either end of the MAF, they are delicate. Bag and seal the MAF in a zip-loc bag to prevent contamination.

Air Filter box and MAF removed.

Remove the hose clamp holding the rubber hose going to the bottom of the ETA using pliers.

Using the 5 mm hex key, remove the 4 socket head cap screws holding the ETA to the intake manifold. You may have to gently "persuade" the heat shield away from the body to get enough clearance for the hex key as shown.

Make sure you are holding the ETA securely when pulling out the last bolt. Don't let it fall.

Look closely at the wires. If the insulation is cracked like the ones shown here, you will have to rewire the ETA. If the insulation looks good, you're probably in luck!

I would hazard to guess that if the wire insulation inside the Actuator is OK, the insulation within the sheathing is probably OK too.

Slap it all back together. Make sure the black seal on the face of the casting is in place before you torque down the cover. You will need a new gasket for between the ETA and intake manifold. It is MB P/N 104 141 07 80. Cost is around US $1.50.

There are some smaller gage wires that have a different type of insulation on them. The colors of these wires are pastel. You can see them under the other wires. These wires come from the potentiometer on the other side of the ETA. These wires were OK on my vehicle, and did not need to be replaced. These instructions do not include this step.

!! You should take very good records/notes/pictures of your particular unit BEFORE you start cutting wires !!

First cut through the wire bundle as close as you can to the back of the connector.

Examine the connector to find the mold line between the two halves. Using a sharp new utility razor blade or X-Acto knife, repeatedly score the mold line on both sides of the connector until the cut is about 1/16th of an inch deep. You MUST follow the mold line as closely as possible in order to split the connector safely.

Go slowly and carefully, do not try to make too deep a cut at one time. It is better to make many gentle cuts.

Place a utility razor blade onto the mold line, and slowly / carefully tap it with a hammer until it starts to split the halves apart.

Do not push the blade further than the largest diameter of the connector. Once you split the connector this far, remove the blade and continue to carefully pry the halves apart with a flat blade screwdriver.

Again, go slowly, and move the blade to different areas to get the halves to split.

Remove remnants of sheathing from connector halves.

De-solder the old wire from the pins. Keep the pins as we will reuse them. Remove all the old solder from the pins using a solder pump or solder wick.

De-solder the remainder of the cut wires from the circuit board. Do not keep the solder iron tip on the board any longer than you have to or you can damage the traces on the board. Again, remove all the old solder from the board.

Remember to use a flux suitable for the solder you are using, and to clean the solder joint thoroughly using Isopropyl Alcohol and a stiff soft bristle brush.

There was also some residue in the gear teeth.

Clean all this residue from the various parts.

I used Military grade wiring for this as it is can withstand high temperature. The wire number series is M22759/11. It is rated for a conductor temperature of 200° C, and the insulation is able to withstand a constant temperature of 260° C. There are three different gages of wires that needed to be replaced. The original gages are metric in size, and are .35, .75, and 1.5 mm in size.

For .35 mm, I used 26 gage
For .75 mm, I used 20 gage
For 1.5 mm, I used 14 gage

This means that you will need;

Two 48" lengths of M22795/11-14
Two 48" lengths of M22795/11-20
Four 48" lengths of M22795/11-26

The color designator is also a number, and is placed at the end of the wire and gage number. So for example, M22759/11-26-6 is a 26 gage wire with blue insulation.

I chose to use different colors to help keep the wires identified. I did have to use the same color code for both wires for the motor as I was not able to find 2 different color codes in this size. Note that you do not have to use different color wires. All wires can be the same color as long as you identify them correctly when soldering them in place. I do recommend that different colors be used as it helps keep them easily identified.

Note that the color code listed below is from MB wiring diagrams. 
I noticed that the wire colors in my Left Side ETA did not match this.
You should take very good records/notes of your particular unit BEFORE you start cutting wires.

Left Side ETA (US Passenger Side)

Right Side ETA (US Driver Side)

Push the pins into each respective slot, again making sure you have the right location for each wire. Make sure they are fully inserted, or you will not be able to reassemble the connector.

After all pins are inserted, insert the pin holder back into the barrel portion of the connector. It must be properly aligned to re-insert it. Make sure the pin holder seats fully into the barrel. You may have to play around with the pins to align them into the holes of the barrel. This can be difficult. Make sure all pins are snapped fully into their slots, or you will not be able to reassemble it.

Position the new sheathing approximately 1 inch from the back of the connector barrel, and heat shrink the Raychem heat shrink tubing in place using a heat gun. This will seal the new and old sheathing together, and lock the new sheathing in place.

Coat the insides of both connector halves using sealant / adhesive where indicated by the blue areas.

Note that the picture shows the old wiring. I do not have a photo of the new wiring at this stage. The new wiring would obviously extend past the connector, and the new sheathing would be placed over the new wire to within one inch of the back surface of the pin holder.

Place the connector barrel into one of the connector halves, making sure the mating grooves are properly seated to each other.

Also make sure that the sheathing is placed inside the connector halves, and is completely surrounded by sealant. We don't want water getting into the wire bundle.